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Quick answer
Identify every device in your internet chain — modem or ONT, router, mesh nodes, switch, phone base station — add up their watts, then choose a UPS or small power station sized for the load and desired runtime.
Most network gear draws very little power, which makes Wi-Fi one of the easiest outage problems to solve. The catch: if your ISP’s local infrastructure is also down, no amount of battery backup on your end brings the internet back.
| Setup | Typical fit |
|---|---|
| Small UPS | Practical starting point for modem/router. Instant switchover, short to medium runtime |
| DC mini UPS | Efficient if voltage and connectors match |
| Portable power station | Longer runtime, more flexible, more expensive |
| Generator | Overkill for just Wi-Fi, useful if already running for other loads |
What needs power
Your home internet chain likely includes some combination of these:
- Cable modem or fibre ONT — the box the ISP cable or fibre plugs into.
- Router — distributes internet to your devices. Often combined with the modem.
- Wi-Fi mesh nodes — if you have a mesh system, each node needs power.
- Network switch — if you have wired devices.
- Phone base station — if you have a home phone that runs through the modem.
- Laptop and phone charging — handled separately from network gear.
Make a list. Each device adds watts.
Runtime math
Network gear watt draws are low compared to appliances:
- Router: typically 5–15W
- Modem or ONT: 5–20W
- Wi-Fi mesh node: 5–15W each
- Network switch: 5–30W depending on port count
- Phone base station: 5–10W
Total for a typical home: 15–50W for the whole chain.
To estimate runtime:
- Add up all device watts.
- Choose a battery or UPS watt-hour rating.
- Multiply by ~0.85 for inverter/efficiency losses.
- Apply a ~20% reserve buffer.
- Divide by your total load.
Example: a 20W total load on a 400 Wh UPS with 85% efficiency: 400 × 0.85 × 0.8 ÷ 20 ≈ 13.6 hours estimated runtime.
A router at 15W is very different from a fridge at 150W or a space heater at 1,500W. That is why a small UPS works well for network gear but not for appliances.
UPS vs power station
UPS vs power station for Wi-Fi
| Decision | Minimum | Better | Overkill |
|---|---|---|---|
| Short outage (under 2 hours) | Small UPS (400–600 VA) | UPS with AVR | 1,000+ Wh power station |
| Medium outage (2–8 hours) | Large UPS or small power station (300–500 Wh) | 500–768 Wh power station | 1,000+ Wh power station |
| Long outage (8+ hours) | 500 Wh power station | 768–1,000 Wh power station | 2,000+ Wh power station plus solar |
| Generator (Wi-Fi + other loads) | Portable generator with proper cord | Inverter generator | Standby whole-home generator |
Setup checklist
Wi-Fi backup setup checklist
- Label each device plug so you know what goes where during an outage.
- Test actual runtime — set up the UPS or power station with your network gear and time how long it lasts. Do not discover problems during an outage.
- Avoid overloaded power strips. Plug battery-backed devices directly into the UPS or power station outlets.
- Keep network gear and batteries ventilated. Do not pile blankets, boxes, or other gear on top of either.
- Make sure the modem or fibre ONT is included in the backup — not just the router. No modem means no internet.
- Keep your phone charged. It is your backup communication device and mobile hotspot if internet is down.
- Download offline maps, emergency contacts, and any critical information before an outage.
- Know how your ISP handles local outages. Some fibre and cable networks have their own backup; others go dark when neighbourhood power fails.
What can still go wrong
Battery backup for your gear is one piece of the puzzle. Internet can still fail for reasons beyond your control:
- ISP outage — your provider’s local equipment or upstream connection is down.
- Damaged local lines — a storm, car accident, or construction cuts physical cables.
- Dead neighbourhood node — fibre or cable nodes that serve your area lose power or are damaged.
- Cellular congestion — if you switch to phone hotspot, towers may be overloaded during widespread outages.
- Weak mesh coverage — only one mesh node on battery leaves dead zones in your home.
- Battery not charged — the most common failure. A dead UPS is just a power bar. Keep it charged.
Product and category guidance
Small UPS: A practical starting point for most homes. A 400–600 VA UPS with AVR can keep a modem and router running for 1–3 hours, with instant switchover to protect against blips. UPS batteries are replaceable. See UPS battery backup Canada.
DC mini UPS: Some small UPS units output DC at the right voltage for certain routers and modems, avoiding AC inverter losses. Efficiency is excellent, but compatibility is limited — check voltage and connector type before buying.
Portable power station: A small power station (300–500 Wh) can run network gear for 8–20 hours depending on load. Larger stations add flexibility for other loads. No instant switchover unless the model specifically supports it. See portable power station Canada.
Generator: Overkill for Wi-Fi alone. If you are already running a generator for fridge, lights, or sump pump, plugging in the router is easy. See generator size calculator.
Related guides
Related ReadyHome guides
Frequently asked questions
How do I keep Wi-Fi on during a power outage?
Plug your modem and router into a UPS or portable power station. Make sure both devices are on battery backup — not just the router. Test the setup before an actual outage.
Do I need to power the modem and router?
Yes. The modem (or ONT for fibre) connects your home to the ISP. The router distributes that connection. If either loses power, you lose internet. Back them both up.
Is a UPS or power station better for Wi-Fi?
A UPS is usually the best starting point for network gear. It switches to battery instantly and protects against power blips. A portable power station offers longer runtime but may not switch fast enough to prevent a router reboot. For long outages, a power station is better. For short outages and surge protection, a UPS wins.
How many watts does a router use?
Most home routers draw 5–15 watts. A combined modem-router unit may draw 10–25W. This low draw is why a small UPS can keep a router running for hours. Check the power supply label for actual watts.
Will internet still work if my house has power backup?
Only if the ISP’s local infrastructure is also powered. If your neighbourhood fibre node or cable amplifier is dead, your backed-up home internet will not connect. In many areas, ISP equipment has its own backup, but not always. Ask your provider what happens to service during a local outage.
Can I use a car inverter for Wi-Fi?
Technically yes, but running a car engine to power a 15W router is wildly inefficient and unnecessary. A small battery-powered UPS or power station does the same job quietly and without burning fuel. Skip the car inverter for network gear.
Methodology
Methodology
This guide uses typical watt draws for consumer networking equipment based on common power supply ratings. Runtime estimates use standard inverter efficiency assumptions and reserve margins. Individual device draws vary by model, features, and settings — check your actual equipment labels.
Official sources used
Public Safety Canada / Canada.ca
Canadian household outage risks and 72-hour preparedness framing.
Health Canada
Recognized Canadian certification marks and electrical product warnings.